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What is Henna?

item4aHenna is a plant that grows in warm dry regions such as Northern Africa, Northwest India, and the Middle East. You might consider it a small tree or a large bush at 2-6 meters high. The plant produces a red/brown dye in its leaves. They dye loves to stick to protein making it a great dye for hair, skin and even nails.

Other words for henna are heena, mehndi, and several others. The word henna is sometimes falsely used to refer to cassia, another hair dye that results in a pale gold, or a black hair dye used to stain skin.

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What is Henna?

How does Henna Work?

A Brief History of Henna.

Is Henna Safe?

How does Henna Work?

details0093The dried leaves of the henna plant are ground into a fine powder. Then the powder is mixed with a slightly acidic liquid such as lemon juice or strong black tea. This breaks down the plant matter and sets the dye molecule free. Certain essential oils such as cajeput, eucalyptus, or lavender are added to dissolve the dye. Sugar is sometimes added to help the paste be more flexible when dry and to stick better to skin.

This paste is then applied to skin and over several hours the dye in that paste is absorbed into the surface layers of skin, and attaches its self to keratin in the skin. When the paste is removed the design remains beneath. At first the henna pattern is an orange color, but matures to a color about like chocolate over a day or two. The exact shades depends on the location on the body and the skin tone.

These designs do not wash off, but will fade over time, as the surface layer of skin slowly wears away and is replaced by fresh, unstained cells.

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A Brief History of Henna

One early written record of henna is in the Ebers Papyrus which was written around 1550 BCE. It is an ancient Egyptian medical guide book filled with ailments and injuries along with herbal and spiritual cures. This text offers many medicinal uses for henna such as rashes and headaches, but does not mention henna’s use in body art. The history of women’s crafts is often allusive. In researching the origins of knitting, for example, one wouldx run into similar challenges. No one can pin down a geographic origin or even agree on which millennia it was developed. It’s much the same for henna. We’ll have to look past the written record and peer into the lives of ancient women.

Where do we begin to look? Knowing that henna loses it’s ability to stain from exposure to moisture and sunlight, we can assume that henna use was limited to areas where the plant can grow. This will limit the search to the Mediterranean coast, Northern Africa, the Middle East, and Southeast Asia. The next step is to look for evidence of henna use in artifacts in or near the area that henna can grow, and then try to decipher if henna is in fact the substance depicted in the artifacts, or if it is another means of body modification. If this sounds like a daunting task, I agree. Thankfully Ms. Catherine Cartwright-Jones has taken a hearty, 200 page first stab at it! Anyone who really wants to dig into the history of henna should start with “Developing Guidelines on Henna: A Geographical Approach.” It lays out a set of protocols for the systematic study of the history of henna.

So, what do we know already? The most widely known use of henna for body art, beyond hair coloring, is the adornment of the bride in an Indian wedding. Contrary to popular belief, this is a fairly recent development. The tradition of wedding mehndi dates back to at least the 1700’s in Muslim traditions, but many claim that it wasn’t a popular part of Hindu weddings until as late as the 1940’s! Even then the wedding mehndi wasn’t the detailed and intricate patterns that we see today. When you are confined to using simple tools like a small stick to apply the henna paste you may find that you are artistically limited!

The earliest examples of henna used for body art actually come from what is now Crete, the Mediterranean coast of Turkey, and the West Bank. These date back to between 6000 and 3000 BCE. Next it spread to Lebanon, Cypress and Egypt in times from 3000 to 1400 BCE. Artifacts have been found that suggest henna was widely used throughout the Mediterranean, Northern Africa and the Arabian Peninsula by 500 BCE and then began to spread through India as well. During these times henna was used in practices that kept away evil and promoted luck and fertility. A warming trend in the Middle Ages saw the use of henna spread as far north as Spain. This was brief, though, as laws banning anything vaguely Islamic were strictly enforced during the inquisition, and women put down the art in order to preserve their lives. Suddenly in the last couple of decades henna has enjoyed a worldwide boom. Ease of transportation and the availably of moisture and air tight containers has made it possible to ship henna all over the globe. The modern obsession with pop culture has made henna a very visible art-form thanks to western fashion pioneers like Madonna and Gwen Stefani.

The most amazing part of the history of henna as body art is that it is still evolving. We are living history right now as we watch an ancient practice take a new worldwide hold. It’s kind of like the evolution of jeans, but with more artistic expression and much deeper roots. Oh yeah, and unlike jeans, henna has always been predominately for women!

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Is Henna Safe?

Natural, pure henna is safe for almost everyone, but as a person with very sensitive skin myself, I want to make certain that all our clients have every bit of information available!

Instances of severe skin reactions and scarring are actually caused by chemical additives used by shady "artists" to produce temporary tattoos that are black and nearly instant. This product is often called "black henna" even though its not really henna at all. Its chemical hair dye, and its not legal for use on skin! You can learn all about this poison and how to avoid it here: http://www.hennapage.com/henna/ppd/index.html

Occasionally I do meet people who are sensitive to natural henna. In a decade in the field I've met about 5 people who have a mild skin allergy to henna. The symptoms are mild itching and redness. The symptoms disappear as soon as the henna paste is removed from the skin.

Other people could have an allergy to other ingredients in the mix. Our paste contains henna powder, lemon juice, sugar, and cajepute essential oil. Some people have skin that is sensitive to citrus juices. In the most extreme cases of citrus sensitivity, people may experience itching and welting in the area. This is very rare. If you have this allergy you would have experienced discomfort of the lips and mouth after having citrus juices or fruits. We can make paste without lemon juice to accommodate anyone with this allergy as long a we have this information in advance. An allergy to cajeput essential oil is also fairly rare, but possible. It is also used in IcyHot balms, so if you've used that product without itching, you have nothing to worry about. Henna paste made with lavender essential oil can be used for people with this allergy, pregnant women, or anyone who would prefer it. Again, advanced notice is required.

The last point in the issue of henna safety relates to a rare disease called G6PD. Infants and children under 6 with this disease can experience extreme and dangers anemia if they have henna on a large percentage of thier skin. Again, this condition is quite rare. Please read more about it here: http://www.hennapage.com/henna/encyclopedia/medical/g6pd.html

If you have any further questions, please feel free to call about them. 419-575-2797

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